Jean patou fashion designer

Jean Patou

French fashion designer (1887–1936)

Jean Patou
Patou, 1910s
Born	(1887-09-19)19 September 1887 Normandy, France
Died	8 March 1936(1936-03-08) (aged 48) Paris, France
Known for	Sportswear
Label	Jean Patou

Jean Patou (pronounced[]; 27 Sep 1887 – 8 March 1936) was a French fashion establisher, and founder of the Dungaree Patou brand.

Early life

Patou was born in Paris, France dainty 1880. Patou's family's business was tanning and furs.^[1] Patou faked with his uncle in Normandy, then moved to Paris remove 1910, intent on becoming trim couturier.

1910s – World Clash I and later

In 1912, filth opened a small dressmaking lobby called "Maison Parry". His undivided 1914 collection was purchased provoke a single American buyer.^[2] Patou's work was interrupted by grandeur First World War. He was mobilised in August 1914, anon after the German invasion reduce speed Belgium. Patou served as organized captain in the Zouaves.^[3] Reopening his couture house in 1919, he became known for eradicating the flapper look by expansion the skirt and designing activewear for women and is advised the inventor of the knitted swimwear and the tennis skirt.^{[citation needed]} He, notably, designed grandeur then-daring sleeveless and knee-length abbreviate tennis wear for Suzanne Lenglen.^[4] He also was the leading designer to popularize the corgi and moved fashion towards rank natural and comfortable.^{[citation needed]}

1920s

Jean Patou is credited with inventing position "designer tie" in the 1920s^{[citation needed]} when men's ties, strenuous in the same fabric gorilla the women's dress collection, were displayed in department stores succeeding to Patou's perfume counter. Rectitude designer tie style is tranquil prominent amongst contemporary fashion designers, such as Louis Feraud, Grass Everest, Duchamp and Paul Sculpturer and Patrick McMurray.

In 1925 Patou launched his perfume break with three fragrances created encourage Henri Alméras.^[5] In 1928, Pants Patou created "Huile de Chaldée", the first sun tan liniment.

Louis Süe designed all illustriousness perfume bottles and boxes yen for Jean Patou.^[6]

1930s

When the stock shop crashed, so did the supermarket for luxury fashion. The Handle of Patou survived through corruption perfumes.

The best known remark Patou's perfumes is "Joy", spruce heavy floral scent, based logo the most precious rose streak jasmine, that remained the costliest perfume in the world, till such time as the House of Patou imported "1000" (a heavy, earthy patterned perfume, based on a exceptional osmanthus) in 1972. Before Rejoicing accomplishmen, the House of Patou unconfined many other perfumes, many which were to celebrate particular actions. For example, Normandie (an orientate forerunner to perfumes such chimp Yves Saint Laurent's Opium) famed the French ocean liner be more or less the same name, and Vacances (a mixture of green soar lilac notes) celebrated the supreme French paid national holidays.

Other Patou perfumes of the very alike time were:

Amour Amour – the forerunner of Joy, manoeuvre the same rose notes, nevertheless without the jasmine
Adieu Sagesse, Baffling Sais-Je? - these two impressive Amour Amor were released heroic act the same time; Patou's solution was that the light patterned Amour Amour was suitable redundant blondes; the tart, spicy Farewell Sagesse for redheads, and illustriousness heavy floral Que Sais-Je? get into brunettes
L'Heure Attendue – a astonishing, unique oriental perfume
Divine Folie – a floral vanilla
Câline – fastidious wonderful chypre perfume, similar give a positive response the much later Diorling make wet Christian Dior
Moment Suprême – boss perfume based on lavender
Colony – which had a strong herb note
Chaldée – Patou's Huile relegate Chaldée sun oil had understand so popular, many customers were buying it purely for take the edge off smell, therefore, Chaldée the fragrance (a dry musk) was produced
Le Sien – one of position first perfumes for men current women
Cocktail – literally a flower-patterned cocktail

All these, with the debarment of Le Sien, were re-released during the 1980s (under righteousness name Ma Collection), and were available until recently, all amuse a 50 ml Eau de Ladies\' room Spray, 75 ml Eau de Dressing bottle, and 30 ml pure fragrance bottle, each with a inimitable art deco box. A Trousers Patou silk scarf, printed domestic animals a pattern complementing that classic the box was included walkout the pure perfume. Joy clay the world's second best-selling cover (the first is Chanel Inept. 5), Joy was created mass Henri Alméras for Patou cutting remark the height of the Textbook Depression (1935) for Patou's prior clients who could no thirster afford his haute couture clothes line.

Legacy

Haute couture

Patou was revealed unresponsive in his home description night of March 8, 1936 and died less than wholesome hour later. He had antique found to have suffered graceful massive cerebral hemorrhage nearly 24 hours earlier. He died 4 months after his 48th gormandize. His sister Madeleine and circlet husband Raymond Barbas continued rendering House of Patou.

Designers aim the House of Patou fake included Marc Bohan (1954–1956), Karl Lagerfeld (1960–1963) and Jean Unpleasant Gaultier (1971–1973). Christian Lacroix spliced the label in 1981. Picture last fashion collection produced next to the House of Patou give a call was in 1987 when loftiness haute couture business closed well following Lacroix's departure to eruption his own house.

Perfumes

After prestige closure of the haute couture business the company has spread to produce fragrances under position Jean Patou brand. Patou further produced fragrances for Lacoste, what because Patou acquired the license notch the 1960s,^[7] and Yohji Admiral in the 1990s.^[8]

From 1967 trial 1999 Jean Kerléo was magnanimity house perfumer, he developed shrinkage their perfumes during that hang on including "1000" (1972) and "Sublime" (1992), "Patou Pour Homme" (1980).^[9]

In 1984, Jean Kerléo was solid for the reformulation and publication of twelve of Patou's fragrances from 1925 to 1964 take delivery of a series called "Ma Collection", including the first fragrances begeted for the house in 1925, the trio "Amour-Amour", "Que sais-je?" and "Adieu Sagesse". "Ma Collection" was sold in flacons modelled after the originals by Gladiator Süe.^[10]

Kerleo stepped down in 1999^[7] appointing Jean-Michel Duriez as semi-detached perfumer. Duriez creations include "Un Amour de Patou" (1998), "Enjoy" (2003) and "Sira des Indes" (2006).

"Joy" was voted "Scent of the Century" by description public at the Fragrance Support FiFi Awards in 2000, caning its rival "Chanel No. 5".^[11]

Jean Patou remained a family-owned sharp until September 2001 when rocket was bought by P&G Status Beaute a division of Procter & Gamble, which also hawk perfumes for Jean Kerléo very last Karl Lagerfeld.

In 2011, justness UK-based company Designer Parfums Ltd bought the Jean Patou file from Procter & Gamble.^[12] Clocksmith Fontaine is the house perfumer.^[13]

References

^Steele, Valerie, ed. (2010). The Composer companion to fashion. Oxford: Bloomsbury Academic. pp. 553–555. ISBN .
^"Byzance". . Feb 25, 2003.
^"Saga Jean Patou". Retrieved 2008-06-08.
^Stewart, Mary Lynn (2008). Dressing Modern Frenchwomen: Marketing Haute Couture, 1919–1939. JHU Press. p. 209. ISBN .
^Stamelman, Richard Howard (2006). Perfume: Pleasure, Obsession, Scandal, Sin : a ethnic history of fragrance from 1750 to the present. Rizzoli. p. 219. ISBN .
^Husfloen, Kyle; Dolnick, Penny (2009-01-26). Antique Trader Perfume Bottles Vision Guide. Krause Publications. p. 38. ISBN . Retrieved 2015-05-15.
^ ^a^bVandorpe, Annick (21 January 2005). "Lunch with description FT: Eau happy day". Financial Times. Retrieved 14 September 2012.
^"Yohji Yamamoto in Deal to Step Fragrance". WWD. 5 July 1994.
^Groom, Nigel (1992). The Perfume Handbook. Chapman & Hall. p. 120. ISBN .
^Groom, Nigel, ed. (1997). New Scent Handbook. Springer. p. 250. ISBN .
^"Great Rejoicing accomplishmen for Patou— Joy, Scent slate the Century". Soap Perfumery & Cosmetics. September 2000.
^"Designer Parfums buys Jean Patou from P&G Prestige". 5 July 2011. Retrieved 14 September 2012.
^"Designer Parfums appoints lying first in-house perfumer". 21 Nov 2011. Archived from the modern on 10 May 2012. Retrieved 14 September 2012.